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موضوع: DIY = Do It Yourself

  1. Top | #1
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          DIY = Do It Yourself

    Hello Dear Friends

    This topic is for sharing Astronomical DIYs. Whether those you find in the net & astronomic sites or those you did them by yourself.

    Hope you use & enjoy it
    ویرایش توسط stargazer : 10-31-2011 در ساعت 12:36 PM


  2. Top | #2
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          Dew Heater

    Everybody's Do-It-Yourself Dew Heater

    by Alan M. MacRobert






    A homemade dew preventer for a finderscope's objective. Six 25-ohm resistors, wired in series, will produce about 1 watt of heat when connected to a 12-volt power source. Tape the bare wires to prevent short circuits, and attach the ring as close to the glass as possible. Similar systems can be made for protecting other, larger optical elements.

    S&T

    If you're competent with a soldering iron and simple electrical components, you can make your own antidew device for a fraction of the price of a commercial unit.
    Electrical resistors, available for small change at any electronic supply shop, make excellent customized warming devices for your telescope's dewcap, eyepiece holder, finder, and/or reflex sight.

    First decide how much heat you need. The usual suggestion is 3 watts for an 8-inch Schmidt-Cassegrain corrector plate and 1½ watts for a finderscope objective or eyepiece. If your dew problems are severe you may need more. Fortunately, resistors are so cheap that you can experiment to find the minimum power consumption that works for a given application.

    Electrical resistance is measured in ohms. To get a desired heat output in watts, the resistance you need is given by the formula

    Ohms = Volts squared / Watts

    where "Volts" refers to the voltage of the power source.

    For instance, if you have a 12-volt battery and want 3 watts, you need 48 ohms of resistance. Eight resistors of 6 ohms each, wired in series, will do it. Resistors come in a limited variety of values, so you may have to settle for a little more or less than you want.

    The resistors should be rated to handle the load you'll put on them. With eight identical resistors delivering a total of 3 watts, each puts out 3/8 watt of heat. So ½-watt-rated resistors should be good enough, though 1-watt resistors would provide a wider margin of safety.

    The resistors can be taped into place with black rubber electrical tape. Get them as near the glass as possible. But be careful to ensure that no bare wire can touch metal; you wouldn't want a short circuit, much less an electrical fire.

    How fast will the heater drain your battery? To find how much current it draws, use the formula

    Amps = Watts / Volts

    For example, a 3-watt heater running on a 12-volt battery draws ¼ amp. So a battery rated at 1 amp-hour will run the heater for 4 hours before needing a recharge.

    If 120-volt power is available, obtain 6 or 12 volts with a small step-down transformer to run all the heaters you want indefinitely.

    WARNING: It would be extremely dangerous to design a resistor heater, with its exposed wires, to run at 120 volts directly. Of course, you shouldn't mess with 120-volt power at all unless you're qualified. That includes knowing that anything using house current outdoors must be plugged into a ground-fault interrupt (GFI) circuit for safety — especially if you'll be touching a metal telescope while standing in wet grass! Plug-in GFI adapters are sold in hardware stores. And any power supply that plugs into a 120-volt outlet must be completely weatherproofed against dew.

    From: Sky&Telescope
    امضای ایشان
    برگ در انتهاي زوال مي افتد و ميوه در ابتداي کمال … بنگر که چگونه مي افتي ؟!

  3. 11 کاربر مقابل از stargazer عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  4. Top | #3
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    CCD Eyepiece for Binoculars- Part 1



    Have you ever looked through your binoculars and thought " I wish I could get this on tape" ? Well now you can. In this Instructable I'll show you how to build a cheap CCD eyepiece that will fit most binoculars.
    You can use it with any camcorder that has a video input to capture whatever you can get a view on with your binoculars.


    Step 1: Materials and tools




    40mm PVC tubing, 1.8mm wall thickness. Not cricital, inner diameter must be wider than binocular.
    Badly centered threading tool in the back.*
    6 nylon screws, 4mm.*




    Everything for a simple power supply for the CCD. Depends a bit on the module you can get.*
    Round piece of perfboard. In the next steps I'll show you how to make this.*

    Gather the following, but note nothing is critical. Here and there I'll tell you how you could do it differently.

    Tools:

    saw, soldering iron, pliers, electric drill with hole saw, sharp knife, 4mm threading tool.

    Materials:

    - 1 cheapo binoculars (mine cost me +-8 euros, but they are quite good.)
    - about 12 cm of PVC tubing , inner diameter must be a larger (1cm is ok) than binocular diameter. (I used 40mm diameter, 1.8 mm wall thickness, thicker is ok too).
    - 6 nylon 4mm 12..20 long screws.
    - RTV silicone or other adhesive.
    - 1 CCD camera module. I used what I could get, which was a module cheap B&W module intended to go in a security camera. It cost me <20 euros. If you have the possibility use a color module with a decent number of lines, as this will give you a better result in the end.

    -Some electronic components to power and attach the CCD module. This really depends on the module you can get.
    Mine needed 5V, so:
    - 78L05 Voltage regulator
    - 10uF 16V capacitor
    - 10uF 35V capacitor
    - 220 ohm resistor
    - red 3mm led.
    - 1N4148 diode for protection against power-reversal,
    - connector to go to a wallwart
    - cable with video connector that matches the camcorder/monitor/videorecorder you want to use.
    - a piece of perfboard.

    optional: AA-size battery holder and switch, if you want a portable power source.

    I couldn't find the exact datasheet of the CCD module I bought (they didn't even have it in the shop), but here is a datasheet of one that looks just like it, and had the same connections.

    Incidently, you could do this hole thing also with a gutted webcam and use a laptop to record what you see through your binos, while you're on the road.

    Step 2: Construct the tube




    1cm long tube .*
    cut out piece of +-1cm .*




    1cm long pieces fit nicely in 10 cm long piece.*
    6 threaded holes , arranged in pairs 120 degrees separated, on one end of the 10 cm tube.*




    Easy adjustment. You can shorten the screws afterward so they don't stick out so much.*

    Saw off three pieces of the PVC tube : one 10cm length, and two 1cm length. Remove burrs with knife.
    Cut a piece out of the 1cm long tubes, so that if you push it together, it fits snugly in the 10cm long tube.

    Take the 10cm piece, put 3 pencil marks at 120degrees on the circumference. draw lines along the tube on marks. put pencil marks at 5mm and 15mm from end of tube. Drill six 3.5mm holes.
    Thread holes to 4mm using threading tool. Insert 6 nylon screws.
    Actual dimensions depend on your binocular a bit, but take a look at the pictures, you'll see what I mean.

    give it a try and fit the tube to the binoculars as in the picture.

    Step 3: Assemble the CCD module










    Select hole saw slightly bigger than PVC tube.*

    ..........
    امضای ایشان
    برگ در انتهاي زوال مي افتد و ميوه در ابتداي کمال … بنگر که چگونه مي افتي ؟!

  5. 7 کاربر مقابل از stargazer عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  6. Top | #4
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    CCD Eyepiece for Binoculars- Part 2




    Then sand down until neat fit in PVC tube.*



    Don't forget to adjust the focus. Fix with silicone adhesive or something similar.*
    Cable with video signal going to monitor or whatever.*

    You want the CCD to be in the middle of the tube, therefore use a hole saw to cut a piece of perfboard a bit larger in diameter than the PVC tubing, then put a bolt through the perfboard and place it in the drill. Sand down on a file until it nicely fits the tube.

    As already mentioned in step 1, the electronics depend heavily on the CCD module you have.
    For my module, a 5V power supply was needed. I'm sure the world isn't waiting for another 78L05 schematic, but here it is, just in case.
    The jumper labeled "gamma" on the CCD is there to switch between indoor and outdoor use.
    Solder wires or connectors to the module. It's more or less up to you how you connect the module to the outside.

    Try to get the CCD module as centered as possible on the perfboard, this will make alignment easier later on. Don't panic if you do not get it exactly in the middle: thats what the nylon screws on the tube are there for.

    Next comes an important step: adjust the focus of the CCD. There's a small lens on top of it. On my module, I had to unscrew it almost completely to get it in focus correctly to a picture a few meters away on the wall. A drop of silicone adhesive keeps the lens in place.


    Step 4: Assembly and Allignment




    CCD module rests on one of the short 1cm tubes.*




    Bright spot at beginning of alignment. Center and decrease distance of CCD to binoculars, a few mm at a time. *



    Almost there, beginning to see details. *




    Done! Yes, it looks better on a TV, this amber monitor is real crap. *





    church tower +- 1km away. Not easy to hold the binoculars and take a picture of the screen at the same time. *




    RTV silicone adhesive. *
    After allignment, second 1cm tube is inserted. You can also glue this if you want. *
    While filming, you can still use the other eye. *

    Alignment is not that hard, once you know how to do it:

    Place the tube on your binoculars, try to get it more or less in the centered, by adjusting the nylon screws.
    Insert one of the short 1cm rings inside the long tube, but not to deep yet, you want approximately 2cm between top of the CCD and the lens of your binoculars.
    Power up and connect the CCD module to a monitor or tv. Insert the CCD module and press it against the ring. Aim at something outside. Make sure upfront that the binoculars are in focus with the object you are taking into view.
    If you're lucky, you'll see a bright spot somewhere in the screen. adjust the screws until the bright spot is in the middle, then take out the module, push the PVC ring inside the tube a few mm further.
    Insert the module again, The spot should be larger, an might be a bit of center. Center again and repeat, until you have a complete bright image.

    At that point the distance from the CCD to the binoculars is optimal. Take it out, put some silicone adhesive on the edge of the perfboard and insert. Then insert the second ring. Done.

    Now go film something interesting and don't forget to rate!

    From: Instructables


    امضای ایشان
    برگ در انتهاي زوال مي افتد و ميوه در ابتداي کمال … بنگر که چگونه مي افتي ؟!

  7. 8 کاربر مقابل از stargazer عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  8. Top | #5
    کاربر فعال
    مدیر تالار

    عنوان کاربر
    ديوان سالار ويكی نجوم
    تاریخ عضویت
    Sep 2011
    شماره عضویت
    1479
    نوشته ها
    1,068
    تشکر
    14,157
    تشکر شده 11,960 بار در 1,080 ارسال

          Observing Chair

    Observing Chair

    The amount of comfort that an adjustable height observing chair brings to a long night of observing is hard to put a value on. When your body is in a comfortable, stable position, you will actually see more. Long guided photographs are far easier to achieve. I started with the basic design of the Denver Observing Chair, then made a few modifications. This is a great, easy to build project that doesn't cost a lot. Assuming you already have all the tools, it shouldn't run you more than $35.







    The biggest complaint people seem to have about this chair is that it tends to tip forward when the seat is low, so I added the board you see on the bottom. It extends past the front of the chair for stability, and is notched so that the seat-side upright fits in and doesn't slip. A latch hook is added to tie the upright to the bottom bar so that it doesn't come out of the notch when you pick the chair up to move it. The only bad thing about the bottom bar is that the chair will not sit stably on uneven ground. But, if your observing is done on a nice level pad, driveway, or deck, it works great. You might be able to add adjustable feet to make it work better on an uneven surface






    Originally, I used the stair tread material for the anti-slip surface that holds the seat in position. After just a few uses, this material came loose. I replaced it and it came loose again. Then I tried a new approach. I set my table saw blade at a 45 degree angle, and set the blade height so the teeth just barely rose above the plane of the table. Then I ran the board that makes the seat-side upright width-wise across the blade. I moved the board about an eigth-inch, ran it across again, and repeated this for almost the whole length of the board. It took a while, but the result was a nice non-skid surface to keep the seat in place. After applying a two coats of polyurethane, I think it will last the life of the chair, too. It also reduces the cost of the chair, and I think it looks better.



    One last addition: a hard foam garden kneeling pad to soften the seat. You can get these for just a few bucks at almost any store that carries gardening supplies. I didn't fasten it to the chair, so I can also use it to kneel on when I have to

    The whole chair folds up nicely so that it is easy to transport.

    From:http://www.shoestringastronomy.com/diy/diy.htm

    امضای ایشان
    وقتی خدا را دیدم که مشکلم را حل می کرد، من به توانایی او ایمان می آوردم

    و وقتی حل نمی کرد


    می فهمیدم او به توانایی من ایمان دارد...


  9. 7 کاربر مقابل از هانیه امیری عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  10. Top | #6
    کاربر فعال
    مدیر تالار

    عنوان کاربر
    ديوان سالار ويكی نجوم
    تاریخ عضویت
    Sep 2011
    شماره عضویت
    1479
    نوشته ها
    1,068
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    14,157
    تشکر شده 11,960 بار در 1,080 ارسال

          Eyepiece Trays

    Eyepiece Trays

    I wanted a convenient place to put eyepieces, filters, and other small stuff that was close to the business end of the telescope so I wasn't constantly digging in my equipment case during an observing session. I used a white polyethylene cutting board that I bought at the local home improvement store for less than $10. This material is amazing. It is easy to machine with woodworking tools. It is easy to keep clean. It is friendly to your expensive equipment, and I think anyone can get professional looking results. The one tray straps to the pier as shown, has through-holes for eyepieces, and a milled out tray area for filters, etc





    .


    From: http://www.shoestringastronomy.com/diy/diy.htm

    امضای ایشان
    وقتی خدا را دیدم که مشکلم را حل می کرد، من به توانایی او ایمان می آوردم

    و وقتی حل نمی کرد


    می فهمیدم او به توانایی من ایمان دارد...


  11. 8 کاربر مقابل از هانیه امیری عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  12. Top | #7
    کاربر ممتاز

    عنوان کاربر
    كاربر ممتاز آوااستار
    مدال طلای كشوری المپياد نجوم
    تاریخ عضویت
    Jul 2011
    شماره عضویت
    1120
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    تشکر شده 28,319 بار در 2,458 ارسال

    these posts are very useful and practical and we have no similar posts like these in persian language. so if someone translate these into persian language, many people can learn and enjoy. could someone please translate these and post them in persian DIY topic? :D

  13. 8 کاربر مقابل از پیمان اکبرنیا عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  14. Top | #8
    کاربر ممتاز

    عنوان کاربر
    کاربر ممتاز
    تاریخ عضویت
    Feb 2011
    شماره عضویت
    584
    نوشته ها
    1,588
    تشکر
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    تشکر شده 12,837 بار در 1,573 ارسال

    نقل قول نوشته اصلی توسط پیمان اکبرنیا نمایش پست ها
    these posts are very useful and practical and we have no similar posts like these in persian language. so if someone translate these into persian language, many people can learn and enjoy. could someone please translate these and post them in persian DIY topic? :D
    oh, thank you mr akbarnia for your attention. (we are so glad for this attention)
    ok it's good but if we do this after that anybody won't check english forum any more so do you or other users have any good suggestions for making here more useful , active & of course make good & useful discussions????

    امضای ایشان
    برگ در انتهاي زوال مي افتد و ميوه در ابتداي کمال … بنگر که چگونه مي افتي ؟!

  15. 7 کاربر مقابل از stargazer عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  16. Top | #9
    کاربر فعال
    مدیر تالار

    عنوان کاربر
    ديوان سالار ويكی نجوم
    تاریخ عضویت
    Sep 2011
    شماره عضویت
    1479
    نوشته ها
    1,068
    تشکر
    14,157
    تشکر شده 11,960 بار در 1,080 ارسال

    نقل قول نوشته اصلی توسط پیمان اکبرنیا نمایش پست ها
    these posts are very useful and practical and we have no similar posts like these in persian language. so if someone translate these into persian language, many people can learn and enjoy. could someone please translate these and post them in persian DIY topic? :D

    Thank you Mr Akbarnia. I agree with you...Ok, so we make a deal, you translate persian topics into english then we translate english to persian one


    Much to my regret, the english part of the forum is not active. Although we have some members that are good at english but they don't pay attention to english topics. If anyone have any ideas about activating this forum, share with us. we are single-handed and we need others to help us .we can discuss in these topics too. So we invite every one to join and help us

    Good luck


    ----------------------------------
    oops, my post & stargazer's were sent at the same time

    ویرایش توسط هانیه امیری : 06-24-2012 در ساعت 03:55 PM دلیل: adding postscript
    امضای ایشان
    وقتی خدا را دیدم که مشکلم را حل می کرد، من به توانایی او ایمان می آوردم

    و وقتی حل نمی کرد


    می فهمیدم او به توانایی من ایمان دارد...


  17. 8 کاربر مقابل از هانیه امیری عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


  18. Top | #10
    کاربر ممتاز

    عنوان کاربر
    كاربر ممتاز آوااستار
    مدال طلای كشوری المپياد نجوم
    تاریخ عضویت
    Jul 2011
    شماره عضویت
    1120
    نوشته ها
    2,424
    تشکر
    12,335
    تشکر شده 28,319 بار در 2,458 ارسال

    DIY = Do It Yourself         
    Thanks for your attention. I know that we need more help for English topics and I try to help but unfortunately I think that I don't have enough English writing skills to patricipate (actually It takes too much time for me to write in English and I have many other responsibilities in the forum which takes a huge amount of time and energy


    the primary goals of English section are these two
    (1)
    Collecting good English articles for Iranian amatures which miss stargazer and amiri and other friends are doing it in the best way

    (2)
    Writing and translating good material and articles about Iranian astronomical groups, projects, scientists and etc for English readers

    I think we should work better for second goal. This needs more help from our other friends In forum who I think have good potential to do this job

    again I thank miss Amiri and miss Stargazer for their extensive efforts

    ویرایش توسط پیمان اکبرنیا : 06-24-2012 در ساعت 06:40 PM

  19. 6 کاربر مقابل از پیمان اکبرنیا عزیز به خاطر این پست مفید تشکر کرده اند.


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